Location: Córdoba → Los Alcázares, Murcia, Spain
Summary: A week that began among Córdoba’s patios, flowers and cobbled streets drifted into long walks, aching legs and a broken phone, before ending back home with cultural tours, carnival parades and a renewed appreciation for quiet days.
Monday, 9th May
Patio hunting, getting lost and a birthday toast to Mum
I woke early after an early night and headed down for the hotel buffet breakfast, nothing special but plenty of it. After eating well, I went out at 10:00 to explore the Patio Festival. A homeless man was playing the accordion beautifully; I tipped him, took a photo and carried on to the first patio. It was lovely, and the next one even better, three small courtyards inside someone’s home. Strange to wander through a stranger’s house, but the places were beautiful. I could imagine living there.
Finding the next patio took another 30 minutes, and after that I wandered Córdoba’s winding streets. By 13:00 I still hadn’t found any more patios. I had a map but no idea where I was on it, and eventually ended up in a run-down industrial area near the river. Next to a busy roundabout was a beer tent, so I stopped for a drink, my feet and legs already aching. The man serving me studied my map and told me I had walked off the edge of it, about 3 km from where I wanted to be. He pointed me back along the river, and I followed it to the historic centre.
By 15:00 I reached the hotel exhausted and in pain and went straight to bed. In the evening I found a lovely restaurant, Casa Rubio, and sat outside on a cobbled street. I had pork fillet from an acorn-fed pig and a glass of white wine in memory of Mum, as today would have been her birthday.
After dinner I got lost again, then stopped for ice cream. The lady serving me even brought a glass of water, which I must have looked like I needed. I got back to the hotel around 21:00 with legs like concrete pillars. Before bed I massaged cream into them and checked my steps, 16.5 km. No wonder I was in agony.
Tuesday, 10th May
The Mosque Cathedral, a rude waiter and pizza in bed
I slept well and was awake by 07:00. After breakfast I walked into the old town to visit the Mosque Cathedral. I bought an €11 ticket, sat in the courtyard eating an apple, then went inside. It was stunning, the arches, the history, the strange blend of Mosque and Cathedral. The only building of its kind in the world.
Afterwards I went to Casa Palacio Bandolero, where Bernard had recommended the Menu del Día. I watched several groups go in and come straight back out. When I went in, the waiter ignored me for half an hour. When I finally asked for the Menu del Día, he told me I couldn’t have it because I wasn’t Spanish. I left without making a scene, and now I understood why everyone else had walked out.
I went to Mercado Victoria instead for tapas and a beer, then back to the ice cream parlour near the hotel. After sitting in the sun, I returned to my room for a sleep. In the evening my legs were still very sore, so I bought two slices of pizza from a small café and ate them in bed.
Wednesday, 11th May
Cava for breakfast, the long journey home and a rescue from Jill
I woke early feeling better. As it was my last day, I had Cava and orange juice with breakfast, included in the buffet so why not. I relaxed in a warm bath before getting ready to leave.
At 11:20 we boarded the coach. We stopped three times for food and comfort breaks. At 18:15 I was dropped off at the Arches in Los Narejos. Both bars were closed, my phone wasn’t working again and I couldn’t call a taxi. I started walking home, dragging my case behind me, but my legs were stiff and sore. I stopped at my cousin Jill’s house. She gave me a cold beer and then drove me the last 2 km home. Thank you, Jill.
Another early night, lovely to be away but even better to sleep in your own bed.
Thursday, 12th May
A resurrected phone, website work and a terrible Arsenal result
I woke early, showered and went to Avatel. My phone had stopped getting a signal in Córdoba. The girl in the shop checked my number, put my SIM in her phone, it worked, then put it back in mine and suddenly it worked again. Typical.
I did some shopping and spent the rest of the day editing photos and working on my website. In the evening I watched Tottenham vs Arsenal. Arsenal started well, then conceded a penalty, had a man sent off and were 2–0 down by half time. I ended up working on my laptop during the second half and missed Tottenham’s third goal. Final score 3–0. A terrible result, made worse by more injuries. I went to bed around 00:00.
Friday, 13th May
The Correos dragon, a fixed picture frame and website work
I packed up my Amazon returns and took them to Correos. Unfortunately, the only person working was the old dragon who loves making life difficult. The Spanish lady in front of me was having a nightmare with her. Thankfully, one of the nice staff members came out to help with the queue, and I was first up, avoiding the dragon entirely.
Afterwards I went to the pharmacy for my regular tablets and a bottle of alcohol rub recommended by a lady in Córdoba. Then I visited the picture framing shop. I brought in my warped Tiger Woods canvas, and the girl said it could be fixed for about €20. Excellent news. I bought milk and went home to work on my website and photos.
Saturday, 14th May
A cultural tour, a haircut from Bob and the Carnival parade
I woke at 06:45, made coffee and did some washing. At 10:00 I walked to the town hall for a cultural tour of Los Alcázares. I arrived early and had coffee and tostada at El Parrillero Grill House. Bob, who owns the tourist train, came over for a chat.
At 11:00 I boarded the train for the tour. Even after 10 years living here, I learned new things about the town’s history. After the tour, Bob gave me a lift home. Later he returned, this time wearing his barber’s hat, and gave me a haircut. Everyone needs a friend like Bob.
In the evening I walked to the main road to watch the Carnival parade. It took nearly two hours to pass, but it was fantastic and I got great photos. I planned to go out afterwards but was exhausted, so I collapsed on the sofa and watched Eurovision. Ukraine won, as expected. The UK came second with Sam Ryder’s Space Man; in another year it would have won easily.
Sunday, 15th May
A perfect Sunday lunch, ice cream and bad news
I woke early and worked on my website all morning. At lunchtime I rode to Campbell’s in Roda for Sunday lunch, roast lamb with all the trimmings. Beautiful as always. On the way home I stopped at Aldi for pecan ice cream, then spent the afternoon on the sofa watching rubbish on TV.
In the evening I walked to La Playa to hear Diana sing, but she was unwell. After a quick pint I headed home. I learned that a friend had been mugged this week and that the chiringuito near me had been broken into only two days after reopening. The police caught one robber this week. I hope they catch the rest of the miserable bastards who prey on people and businesses.
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