Location: Noli & Finalborgo in Liguria, Italy
Summary: A delayed coach departure led to a beautiful visit to Noli, a frustratingly brief stop in Finalborgo, a memorable Ginseng coffee, and an evening of cocktails and conversation back on the Costa Diadema before an early night ahead of tomorrow’s long excursion.
Two Villages, One Beautiful Liguria Coastline
Today, I woke up in the port of Savona, ready for my coach trip to the villages of Noli and Finalborgo. I got up around 7 am, showered, and went for breakfast at one of the ship’s buffets as we pulled into port. The coach was scheduled to leave at 9 am, and I was already seated by 8:45. True to form, several people wandered down late, and we didn’t leave until about 9:20.
Noli
We soon began driving along the coastal road toward Noli. The road was narrow and winding, with occasional roadworks and rock‑fall clearances. Our guide, knowledgeable and enthusiastic, explained that Noli had originally been accessible only by boat. As we travelled, we passed a string of beautiful coastal villages. This part of Liguria was stunning, and I already knew I wanted to return.
Once we arrived, the coach dropped us off, and our guide pointed out the buildings along the roadside, explaining that they had once formed part of the village walls. She then led us across the road to the beach, where fishermen still launched their small boats directly from the sand. The bay was breathtaking. After taking photos and admiring the morning’s catch, we crossed back to approach the gates of the walled village.
Inside Noli, our guide gave us a brief but fascinating walk through the historic centre. I fell in love with the village almost instantly and made a mental note to return for a longer visit. She showed us memorial stones dedicated to former residents and shared stories from the village’s long history.
Inside the Oratorio di Sant’Anna, I lit two candles for my mum and dad. I’m not religious, but I like to light a candle for them wherever I travel. They were the ones who gave me my love of exploring the world. After our short visit, we returned to the coach and headed toward Finalborgo.
Finalborgo
Finalborgo was only a short drive away, and again we passed through lovely coastal villages before turning inland. The coach dropped us in a small car park, and we walked across a river toward the fortified village walls.
Unfortunately, the visit was delayed almost immediately. Many people from the coach insisted on finding a public toilet, and the tour ground to a halt while they queued. Even our guide was visibly fed up. Nearly an hour passed before everyone was ready to continue. Because of the delay, the guide only had time to show us the outside of the walls and the main entrance road. She pointed out a castle on the mountainside, built by former Spanish rulers, before giving us 40 minutes of free time.
I took a quick walk around the first part of the village, taking photos and planning a future return. The cafés and bars were all advertising overpriced coffee and sandwiches, so instead I went back to a community centre I had noticed earlier. Their prices were far more reasonable, and they sold my favourite Ginseng coffee. I sat in the courtyard and enjoyed a cup, then decided I had time for a cappuccino.
This is where things went slightly wrong. Most of the staff were disabled and understandably worked at a slower pace. The waiter took my order and my money but never returned. After waiting, I went inside with my receipt and asked the lady running the centre. She called another waiter, who slowly made me a delicious cappuccino, but by then, I had to gulp it down and rush back to the coach. Still, if you ever visit Finalborgo, try the Ginseng coffee at the community centre. It’s worth it.
Port of Savona.
On the way back, our guide told us more about Savona's history and its port. The cruise terminal, co‑financed by Costa Cruises, opened in 2003 and was designed by architect Ricardo Bofill. A second terminal opened in 2014 for the Costa Diadema, and major renovations were completed in 2019 to accommodate the Costa Smeralda.
Return to the Costa Diadema
Back on board, I had a quick shower before discovering that my escorted tour to Civita di Bagnoregio had been cancelled in English due to low numbers. They offered me a place on the French/Italian tour instead, and since I really wanted to see the village, I switched.
At dinner, I met Gail again, and we were joined by an Argentinian gentleman who spoke no English but a little Italian and Spanish. He ended up joining us for dinner for the rest of the cruise.
Tonight’s meal was mixed: a gorgeous cheese flan with honey and hazelnuts, an unremarkable leek-and-potato soup (my homemade version is better), disappointing braised beef, and a hazelnut cake so dry it was almost impossible to swallow.
After dinner, Gail and I met Val in the Teadora lounge for cocktails and music. Gail briefly checked the Emerald Theatre show but returned quickly, saying it wasn’t worth seeing. We stayed where we were, chatting over drinks. With a long day ahead tomorrow, I left them both and returned to my cabin for an early night. The day’s walking and delays had worn me out.
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