Tangier tour

Location: Tangier, Morocco, Africa.

Summary: A first visit to North Africa filled with surprises: spotless streets, dramatic coastlines, myth‑laden caves, sweet mint tea, an unexpected brush with the local underground economy, and a brilliant Spanish guitarist to end the day.

Arriving in Tangier

Today, the ship docked in Tangier, marking my first visit to Morocco, North Africa, and the African continent. Despite not getting to bed until around 05:00 after photographing the Strait of Gibraltar, I was up again at 07:30. I showered, dressed, and went for breakfast before heading to the theatre, where passengers joining excursions were given instructions.

I boarded my coach, and we began exploring Tangier. I was immediately struck by how clean the city was, with spotless streets, well‑kept houses, and some very affluent neighbourhoods. We passed a stunning home perched high on a hillside overlooking the port. Our guide told us it belonged to an Arab prince who had died four years earlier. He had been a car collector and owned one of only two Rolls‑Royces of a particular model ever made; the other belonged to Queen Elizabeth II. Apparently, none of his family even knew he owned the house.

The Market

Our first stop was a small local market. It was impressively clean, with stalls full of fresh fish, vegetables, and birds waiting to be taken home for dinner. Our guide pointed out the absence of pigeons, then showed us a stall where a man was skinning the pigeons he had caught. They sold for around €25 each, and we were told it took about eight to make a proper meal for a family.

Cape Spartel

Next, we drove to Cape Spartel, where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Mediterranean Sea. The lighthouse stood above waves crashing onto beautiful beaches below. We only stopped briefly, but I thought it was one of the most beautiful places I’ve visited.

The Caves of Hercules

A short drive took us to the Caves of Hercules. According to myth, Hercules slept here before completing his 11th labour. On the walk down, our guide warned us about local “silver” (actually pewter) and camel‑leather goods treated with camel urine, fine when dry, but unforgettable once wet.

Inside the caves, a local guide took over, sharing stories about the cave’s formation, the symbolic shapes in the rock, and the legend of Hercules. The Atlantic crashed through the cave’s famous opening, and although I took photos, they hardly captured its scale. The guide was engaging and humorous, and he earned a well‑deserved tip.

Hotel Ahlen

We stopped for refreshments at Hotel Ahlen, not named after me. We were served mint tea and an almond biscuit/cake, both delicious. After a quick look around the hotel, I mistakenly headed toward the wrong coach, thinking ours was blue. The correct coach began to pull away without me, but someone spotted me, and it stopped. I scrambled aboard, slightly embarrassed, as we headed for the Casbah.

The Casbah

The Casbah sits atop a hill overlooking the city. Thankfully, the coach dropped us near the entrance. Our guide led us through narrow streets, pointing out landmarks including a mosque preparing for prayer.

My legs were swelling, and walking became difficult, but I loved exploring the Casbah. We were given an hour of free time, so I sat at a café with my Finnish companion. We ordered mint tea, scorching hot, sweet, and delicious. I’ll have to ask my friend Rachid for a recipe when I’m back in Los Alcázares.

While people‑watching, I noticed a sweet shop across the street. Customers pointed at treats and bought them by weight, just like old‑fashioned sweet shops in the UK. But then I saw something different: men placing money on the counter, palms down. The shopkeeper silently swapped the cash for something small, which the men pocketed quickly. One man was slow, and I saw the biggest joint I’ve ever seen. I’ve witnessed deals before, but never one disguised as a sweet‑shop transaction.

Eventually, we regrouped and walked back through the Casbah. Our guide pointed out film locations and told us how one production company paid every resident to be an extra, whether they appeared on screen or not, generating goodwill throughout the community.

Back on MSC Lirica

Back on board, I rested my legs, which were swollen and painful from the walking. In the evening, I met Helen and Jean for a drink before dinner at 18:30. Afterwards, we went to the theatre, only to find the show cancelled. Instead, a Spanish guitarist named Mariano Miranda performed. He was fantastic, talented, expressive, and clearly in love with his craft. It was a brilliant end to a long, memorable day.