Location: Shennong Stream, Yangtze River, China
Summary: A peaceful morning, a dramatic river gorge, unexpected jade shopping, acupuncture experiments, and a cabaret finale.
I woke up early this morning, took a shower, and headed to the Yangtze Club for a cup of black tea. A few passengers had joined the ship’s doctor for a Tai Chi session, so I sat and watched them glide through their routine while I eased into the day.
At 07:00, I went to the restaurant for breakfast. Our waitress greeted me with her usual warm smile and brought me a cup of tea. I was soon joined by the other VIP‑restaurant regulars, Pat, Mike, Ewen, and Tracy. We all agreed that enjoying breakfast in a quiet, comfortable setting was far better than the chaos downstairs, where the main buffet resembled a competitive sport. I hoped Mel, April, and Branwen had formed a small defensive unit and managed to get something before it all vanished.
About the Shennong Stream
The Shennong Stream is a striking natural wonder in central China’s Hubei Province. It begins on the southern slope of Shennongjia Mountain and winds through deep valleys for around 60 kilometres, collecting water from 17 smaller streams and passing numerous waterfalls along the way.
The stream flows through several dramatic gorges:
- Chengnong Gorge: known for its grandeur.
- Mianzhu Gorge: narrow, steep, and dotted with more than 30 shoals.
- Yingwu Gorge: elegant, evergreen, and home to a three‑coloured fountain.
- Longchang Gorge: famous for its ancient suspended wooden coffins and plank road.
Visiting the Shennong Stream
This morning’s excursion took us up the Shennong Stream. Our ship docked in Badong, and we transferred to a smaller boat for the journey upstream. As we travelled, our guide pointed out mountain peaks, pagodas, and the small villages where people had resettled after the dam flooded the original gorges.
We learned that during the wet season, the water can reach a depth of 185 metres. The scale of the flooding and the number of people displaced became more apparent as we moved deeper into the valley. We heard both sides of the story: older residents who never wanted to leave, and younger families who were pleased to gain larger, modern homes at half the cost, along with new job opportunities.
Further upstream, we saw the famous hanging coffins, wedged high into the cliffs. They were placed there to deter grave robbers, and the higher the coffin, the more important the person was to the village.
Eventually, we arrived at a small village and climbed several steep flights of stairs to reach the “tourist village” at the top. We were given vouchers for a piece of jade to be made into jewellery. My token earned me a dull piece of jade, but when I asked to have it threaded, I was told I couldn’t keep that one; I could, however, buy a ready‑made piece. I chose a green jade charm said to bring luck and love.
We were then ushered into a room where locals in traditional dress performed a dance-and-storytelling show. I only caught the end of it, but it added to the atmosphere.
Outside, I spotted what I considered a brilliant bit of Chinese ingenuity. A food stall was selling duck, scorpion, rat, and other delicacies. What impressed me wasn’t the menu but the fly‑prevention system: a child‑like hanging mobile made of string and coloured cards spinning gently in the breeze. It kept the flies away better than anything I’d seen in a market.
Photos from the Shennong Stream.
We made our way back down the stairs to the motor launch and returned to the cruise ship for an early lunch.
Back on the Victoria Selina
Some passengers were heading out on an optional afternoon trip, but I had booked acupuncture for my tinnitus.
Acupuncture Treatment
After lunch, I discovered that Branwen, Tracy, and Pat had also booked acupuncture sessions. I was first in, lying face down on the treatment bed while chatting with Dr Hu. He explained that tinnitus can be linked to kidney function, and since nothing in England has ever helped, I signed up for the full treatment.
First came the acupuncture: needles placed in my back and ankles, followed by a gentle electric current that was surprisingly relaxing. Then came the cupping, a deep, intense massage that felt like he was trying to rearrange my spine. It wasn’t painful, but it certainly made its presence known. A nerve‑stimulating massage followed.
At the end, I was given two months’ worth of tablets meant to support kidney function and, in turn, help my tinnitus. The whole treatment, including tablets, costs ¥1600. If it doesn’t work, I’ve at least had an excellent massage. If it does work, I’ll be forever grateful. My tinnitus is extremely distressing, so the gamble felt worth it. I only hope I don’t get stopped at customs in England with boxes of tablets labelled entirely in Chinese.
Victoria Selina Cabaret
Tonight’s entertainment was the Victoria Selina Cabaret, and my waitress, Selina, was in many of the performances. I did my best to encourage her by waving or sticking my tongue out whenever she appeared on stage. I’ve no idea how she kept a straight face. After one act, she told me off for making her laugh and warned that she’d be dragging me up to dance with her at the end of the show.
Photos from the Victoria Selina.
I'm afraid I made myself scarce for the crucial moment. I slipped back into my seat just as the final act began. When the show ended, Selina marched over and scolded me for running away. In hindsight, I should have danced with her; she looked stunning.
After the show, I kept Selina company at the bar for a while before heading back to my room for an early night. The walking, the climbing, and the Chinese medical treatments had worn me out, and I was more than ready for bed.
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