A day exploring the Terracotta Warriors, the Han Yang Ling Museum, the Small Wild Goose Pagoda, and an evening of dumpling‑making and a less‑than‑stellar Tang Dynasty Show.
Today, we visited the Terracotta Warriors and the Small Wild Goose Pagoda. We were picked up from the hotel by our coach, and after a short drive, we arrived at the site of the Terracotta Warriors, near the Mausoleum of Qin Shi Huang, China's first emperor. Thankfully, our driver dropped us right at the entrance rather than the central car park, sparing us a long, hot walk in the sun.
Terracotta Warriors.
On the way in, our guide told us the story of how the Warriors were discovered by a farmer whose land was then taken from him by the government. He was given just ¥30 in compensation for both the discovery and his fields. Years later, a government official realised the injustice, and the farmer was given a job at the centre. Now blind, he signs copies of a book about the Terracotta Army. He happened to be there on the day of our visit, so I bought a copy and had him sign it.
Pits 1, 2, and 3.
We began in Pit 1, the famous one you see in every documentary and travel programme. The Warriors were incredibly impressive, but huge areas remain unexcavated. The moment they’re exposed to air, the colours and surfaces begin to deteriorate, so archaeologists are waiting until they can preserve them properly.
Pit 2 was destroyed in a revolution and is strewn with smashed, broken figures. It’s sad to see history destroyed like this, something that happens all over the world. Preserving the past and understanding why people revolted would teach us far more.
Pit 3 is mostly empty for now, but more remains to be excavated. One day, it will become a major exhibit when the figures are uncovered and restored.
About the Terracotta Army.
The Terracotta Army was created to protect Qin Shi Huang in the afterlife and was buried with him in 210–209 BC. Discovered in 1974 by farmers in Lintong County, the army includes warriors, horses, and chariots. Estimates suggest over 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots, and 670 horses, most of which remain buried.
Han Yang Ling Museum.
Our guide told us that while the Terracotta Army has around 8,000 figures, the Han Tombs contain over 100,000. These were buried with China’s fourth emperor. When we arrived, we were given plastic shoe covers to protect the walkways.
After the build‑up, the museum was a bit of a letdown. The figures are tiny and look like Bill and Ben from The Flowerpot Men. They had no arms; those were wooden and have long since rotted away. The whole place looked like a reject bin from Toy Story, or somewhere unwanted dolls go to die.
About the Han Yang Ling Museum.
The site includes two large burial mounds, 86 smaller pits, and a graveyard for criminals. The larger mound belongs to the Jing Emperor, the smaller to his Empress, Wang. Around 50,000 miniature terracotta figures are on display, representing daily life in the Han court. Originally clothed in delicate fabrics, they now stand naked after two millennia of decay.
Small Wild Goose Pagoda.
We only had a brief stop at the Small Wild Goose Pagoda, which was a shame because the grounds were beautiful. I did, however, get the chance to strike the large Morning Bell Chimes in the gardens. I hit the bell three times, making the water in the surrounding tubs overflow and, apparently, bringing good luck, happiness, and protection from calamities.
About the Small Wild Goose Pagoda.
Built between 707 and 709 during the Tang dynasty, the pagoda originally stood 45 metres tall. After the 1556 Shaanxi earthquake, it now stands at 43 metres with fifteen tiers. Its brick frame and hollow interior reflect traditional Tang‑era architecture.
Dumpling‑Making Lesson.
In the evening, we were taken to a restaurant for a dumpling‑making lesson. We were told that each dumpling shape reflects its filling: duck dumplings shaped like ducks, fish dumplings shaped like fish, and so on. Unfortunately, all of mine looked like exploded bombs or injured animals. Tracy produced a perfect Cornish‑pasty‑shaped dumpling, though I’m not convinced any of us knew what filling we’d been given.
We then moved to the dining area, where we were served 18 different dumplings. Some were delicious, others less so, but we all agreed that eating them was far easier than making them.
Tang Dynasty Show.
The Tang Dynasty Show featured several acts, though, as many of us suspected, no acrobats. The musicians who opened the show were dreadful; the noise they made sounded like someone strangling a cat. The dancers were excellent, and even though the stories were told in Chinese, we could follow some of them.
Overall, though, the show wasn’t a hit with my travelling companions. As we left, we were handed a programme explaining each act in English. If we’d had that before the show, we might have understood and enjoyed it far more.
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