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Giant Leshan Buddha & Changing Faces Ceremony.

A river‑view introduction to the Giant Leshan Buddha, a determined climb to its base and back, and an evening of shadow art, fire‑breathing, and lightning‑fast face‑changing at the Sichuan Opera.

Leshan.

This was another must‑see experience for me on this trip, and I was glad I’d made the effort. We boarded the coach and set off. I even enjoyed the motorway toll booths on the way; they were built with the same traditional roof designs we’d seen on temples and pagodas, and they looked fantastic.

River Cruise.

When we arrived in Leshan, we boarded a boat for an “Aquatic Tour” of the Minjiang and Qingjiang Rivers. We sped downstream quickly, getting only a brief glimpse of the Giant Leshan Buddha at first. But once the boat turned and began fighting the strong current, we were treated to a much longer, much better view.

From the river, the Buddha was spectacular. The people descending the steep steps to the base looked tiny. Our guide told us that to see the Buddha properly, we’d have to climb to the top, descend one side, climb back up the other, and then retrace our steps again to return to the coach, and that once you start, you can’t turn back.

After the river viewing, our boat struggled back against the tide to the dock. We were rewarded with a buffet dinner at a restaurant overlooking the river before heading to the Buddha itself.

Leshan Giant Buddha.

After lunch, those who didn’t fancy the climb were dropped at a small market to enjoy a beer or a glass of wine. I had already decided that, even though I wasn’t sure I could manage it, I was going to try. This was one of the things I’d come to China to see, and I wasn’t about to bottle it at the last minute. Dave and John were going too, and Mel decided she couldn’t let me struggle alone, so she came along to make sure I was okay.

After a short walk, we reached the entrance. It quickly became clear that our guide’s description had lost something in translation; the walk to the top was far more leisurely than he’d made it sound. Anyone in our group could have done it.

At the top, we discovered that you don’t have to descend to the base unless you want to. There were several viewpoints near the Buddha’s head, plus gardens, a pagoda, and smaller monuments that required no difficult climbing.

Chinese ladies once again asked Mel for photos; they seemed fascinated by her blonde hair and good looks. I really should start charging for these photo sessions.

I decided to continue down the steep steps to the base. The walk was supposed to take about 1½ hours, mainly because people stop constantly for photos, and the narrow path makes passing difficult. Mel and I reached the bottom, where Dave and John were already waiting. We posed for photos and then began the climb back up. This was much harder; the steps were steep and uneven, but with Mel’s help and several rest and water breaks, I made it.

My legs felt like jelly, and it took a while to catch my breath, but I was glad I’d done it. We wandered through a lovely garden and saw the cave where the monk who began the Buddha’s construction once lived. Mel, Dave, and John climbed further to see the Lingyun Temple, but I stayed behind to recover.

When we left, we walked back through the gardens to the car park and market where the rest of the group had been waiting. It looked like they’d been “forced” to drink large amounts of alcohol to stave off sunstroke. As Mel and I arrived, I was greeted with applause and cheering for completing the climb.

Sichuan Opera and Folk Arts Performance.

In the evening, I joined a small group to attend the Sichuan Opera and Folk Art Performance. Before taking our seats as special guests, we were taken backstage to meet the performers as they prepared.

The first act was a shadowgrapher creating incredible hand‑figure silhouettes on a large screen. Then came folk‑art performers telling stories in costume, including a fire‑breather. Musicians followed, playing traditional local music, and then the famous face‑changing performers took the stage. The speed at which they changed masks was astonishing; even the comedy face‑changer was brilliant.

Throughout the show, a couple appeared repeatedly as a hen‑pecked husband and his domineering wife. Their routine was hilarious, and even in Chinese, the humour came through clearly.

I highly recommend this show to anyone visiting the area.

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