A sunrise boat ride on the Ganges during Kumbh Mela, a visit to Bharat Mata Mandir and a silk shop, followed by an afternoon exploring Sarnath’s temples, stupas and museum, plus a few unexpected photo requests.
Varanasi and Sarnath.
Today, we were up very early, before sunrise, to sail along the Ganges and watch devout Hindus bathing and praying beneath the rising sun.
Sailing the Ganges.
After yesterday’s long journey through Varanasi, I wondered whether we would get anywhere near the river this morning. With the sheer number of people descending on the city for the Aarti Ceremony, I thought our sunrise boat ride might be impossible. I was thrilled when we arrived and found we could get very close to the river; shortly afterwards, we boarded our small boat.
We were all told to put on life jackets, though I’m not convinced they would have helped much if we had gone into the water; they were old, tatty, and far too small. Still, we put them on and set off from the ghat.
Even from the pontoon, we could see people undressing to bathe in the Ganges. I really enjoyed this trip. The sun rising above the misty clouds made it even more memorable. I was amazed by the number of people, young and old, bathing in the river to celebrate Kumbh Mela.
After our trip along the Ganges, we were driven back through Varanasi and taken to our hotel, with a brief stop at Bharat Mata Mandir.
Bharat Mata Mandir.
We had only a brief stop at the Bharat Mata Mandir. When we arrived, we had to walk through the building site surrounding it. Our guide explained that the construction was part of an overhead train line being built through Varanasi, with one of the stations planned for the temple. It will undoubtedly make visiting easier in the future, though I hope it doesn’t spoil the area or damage the building once thousands of people start arriving by train.
I must admit I didn’t hear much of what our guide said while we were there, and had to Google it when I got home. The map inside the temple was fantastic, and I was surprised by what we found once we entered.
Hotel and silk shop.
After leaving the temple, we returned to the hotel. A few of the ladies were being taken to a silk shop on the same road, and I decided to join them to look for a silk shirt. The shop was fascinating. The owners showed us the original wooden looms used to weave silk and explained the process as their son led us around the shop. Many of the ladies bought beautiful dresses or had them made. I decided not to spend much on a shirt I’d only wear once or twice. I still have one from Beijing that I’ve worn only twice. I did buy two cushion covers, which I’ll use in my apartment in Spain once I find suitable fillers.
After the silk shop, I walked back to the hotel for a brief rest.
Sarnath.
It wasn't long before our coach picked us up and drove us to Sarnath.
Thai Temple.
The Thai Temple at Sarnath is famous as the place where Gautama Buddha first taught the Dharma, or at least one of the places various guides have claimed he did. Only history knows the truth. This, however, is the site where the original Sangha was formed. I enjoyed a short visit, walking around the ornate Buddhas and the tranquil gardens.
After leaving the temple, we took a short walk up the road to the Dhamek Stupa.
Dhamek Stupa.
I liked the gardens at the Dhamek Stupa and would love to say how peaceful they were, but a local church had parked a truck outside the grounds, its huge speakers blasting music to a group of followers. Our guide said more churches are doing this to attract younger people. It may work, but so would a disco, and there’s no need to do it so close to a Buddhist monument. I would have enjoyed some quiet contemplation, but it wasn’t to be.
Walking around the gardens reminded me of the game Civilisation VI, which features a stupa as one of the monuments you can build. I mentioned this to Dave, one of the other gentlemen on the tour, and he laughed; he’d thought the same thing, as he also plays the game.
After leaving the stupa, we met outside the Sarnath Museum, then went inside for a quick look around.
Sarnath Museum.
Sarnath Museum is the oldest site museum of the Archaeological Survey of India and houses artefacts from excavations at Sarnath. We had only a brief walk around, and it didn’t take long to see everything. There were some interesting pieces, and I’m glad we visited, but I would happily have spent the time at the Thai Temple or the Dhamek Stupa instead.
When I left the museum, I stood outside, waiting for the rest of the group, when someone I assumed was trying to sell something approached me from my blind side. I politely said no and waved him away, but as I turned, I realised his friend was holding a camera; he wanted a photo with me. Being head and shoulders taller than most people there, I was something of a novelty. I agreed, and then two family groups approached wanting photos as well. I obliged, and by then the rest of the group had gathered, and we boarded the coach to return to our hotel for the night.
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