A long train journey to Amritsar with unexpected drama, followed by an unforgettable evening visit to the Golden Temple.
Delhi to Amritsar.
Today, we left Delhi on a train for our long journey to Amritsar. Those of us continuing the tour were allowed only a carry‑on bag, so we packed and left our main cases in the hotel lobby for storage before heading to the station.
Train Journey.
Our train once again resembled an old British Rail carriage from the 1970s. Our bags were taken from us and stored in the overhead lockers in our carriage. The food and snacks served on board were quite good, and the staff continually offered refreshments throughout the journey. I spent most of the five‑hour trip reading on my Kindle, gazing out at the scenery, or taking a nap.
At one station, there was a sudden commotion at the far end of our carriage. A traveller jumped up, grabbed a large bag from an overhead locker, and quickly left the train just before it departed. He was chased by a group of people shouting at him. He had stolen their luggage and escaped before anyone could catch him. A short time later, the train moved on. Train guards took statements from the victims and a couple of nearby witnesses.
During the journey, I used the train’s toilet, a shared male-and-female facility that was little more than a hole in the floor. I was glad I only had to use it briefly, and I felt sorry for any ladies who had to use it.
When we arrived in Amritsar, we were met at the station and taken by coach to our hotel for the next couple of nights, the Radisson Blu. We had some time to rest before dinner at the hotel buffet. I couldn’t face any more curry and settled for several beautiful‑looking cakes. They looked better than they tasted.
Amritsar.
This evening, we were taken on a tour through Amritsar to see the Golden Temple. We were met near the temple by a local guide who reminded me of my cousin Paul, in his mannerisms, his laid‑back attitude, and the way he spoke.
After the coach dropped us off, we were whisked a short distance by tuk‑tuk to a shopping area near the temple, then led through it to a square outside. We all had to leave our shoes at a shoe locker near the entrance. The ladies were given shawls to cover their heads, and the men were given bandanas before we were led inside.
Golden Temple.
I was amazed by my first glimpse of the Golden Temple, beautifully lit, glowing across the water. We stopped briefly for photos before our guide encouraged us to follow him closer. We walked around the pool and approached the temple, getting far nearer than I expected. Then came the biggest surprise: we were ushered through the crowds and into an area right next to where the evening ceremony would take place. The only way we could have been closer would have been to be part of the ceremony itself.
While we waited, we took photos and chatted with several Indian visitors standing on the other side of the cordoned‑off area. They were all incredibly friendly and happy to take photos with us.
After the ceremony finished, we were led back outside to collect our shoes. We walked the short distance back to the coach and were soon on our way to the hotel. I was amazed by the warmth and friendliness of everyone we met in Amritsar. The people were terrific, and our guide here was easily the best we had in India.
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