An early start for a wildlife‑filled boat trip to the Ballestas Islands, a close encounter with the Paracas Candelabra, a glimpse into Inca medical history, and a swaying climb to view the Nazca Lines before ending the day in Nazca.
Today we set off early for a boat trip to the Ballestas Islands, a protected wildlife haven home to Humboldt Penguins, Peruvian Pelicans, Peruvian Boobies, Neotropic Cormorants, Inca Terns and plenty of Sea Lions. The half‑hour speedboat ride out to the islands was great fun in itself. Even before boarding, we were treated to close‑up views of Peruvian Pelicans on the beach, where locals were feeding them in the hope of earning a tip from the photographers heading out on the tour.
Paracas Candelabra.
On the way, we passed the impressive Paracas Candelabra, carved into the sandy hillside and visible far out at sea. Its exact age is unknown, but pottery found nearby dates to around 200 BC and is linked to the Paracas people, though it remains a mystery whether they created the geoglyph. Its purpose is equally uncertain. It may represent the trident of the god Viracocha, a symbol seen across South American mythology. Others suggest it was a navigational sign for sailors, or even a depiction of a hallucinogenic plant called Jimson weed. Whatever the truth, it is an extraordinary sight etched into the desert.
Ballestas Islands.
The Ballestas Islands themselves are a cluster of rocky outcrops near Pisco, covering only about 0.12 km² but teeming with life. On the way out, dolphins and sea lions swam alongside our boat, playing in the wake as if welcoming us to their territory.
Once we reached the islands, the wildlife was astonishing. Thousands of birds crowded the cliffs, Peruvian Pelicans, Neotropic Cormorants, Peruvian Boobies, Inca Terns and the unmistakable Humboldt Penguins. Sea lions sprawled across the rocks or bobbed in the water, and we watched several mothers teaching their pups how to scramble up the slippery ledges.
Every five to seven years, locals collect the guano from the islands to sell as fertiliser, a tradition that still provides income for many families. Fishermen were also out in small boats, using hand lines to catch fish for their households and to sell at market.
After leaving the islands, we visited a small private museum in Pisco. It housed a collection of locally found skulls that demonstrated the surprisingly advanced medical techniques once practised by the Incas.
Nazca Lines.
From Pisco, we continued towards Nazca for our overnight stay. On the way, we stopped to climb a rather flimsy iron viewing tower, clearly erected long before health and safety became fashionable, to look down on the Nazca Lines. The coach parked on one side of the road, leaving us to dash across the other, dodging lorries, cars and coaches hurtling through the desert.
The Nazca Lines were worth the effort. From the top of the swaying tower, which I clung to while trying to photograph the two nearest figures, I could almost imagine enormous spacecraft landing here centuries ago, carving these symbols into the earth. That theory lasted until our guide explained how the Nazca people themselves created the designs as offerings to their gods. A far more grounded explanation, though perhaps not quite as entertaining.
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