A day exploring Arequipa beneath its smoking volcanoes, from fertile valleys and ancient Inca remains to the peaceful Santa Catalina Monastery, a lively vicuña factory tour, and a well‑earned dinner overlooking the city.
This morning, I ate at the breakfast buffet and drank one or two cups of Coca tea, which I had grown surprisingly used to on this trip.
Arequipa.
Arequipa sits in the shadow of the ice‑capped volcanoes that form part of the “Ring of Fire”. These giants are still active, and one of them was visibly smoking as we approached the city. Our coach driver for today’s tour navigated the tightly packed neighbourhoods with small, winding streets. At one point, when he turned onto a dirt track, I was convinced he’d realised he couldn’t get the coach through and was attempting a three‑point turn in a field. But no, he knew exactly where he was going. Moments later, the road opened out onto a beautiful, fertile valley.
A river wound its way through the centre, flowing down from the mountains and volcanoes above and continuing through Arequipa. In the valley below, we could see crops growing and livestock grazing, tended by the farmers who make their living here. The view up towards the “Misty” volcano was stunning, a complete contrast to the desert landscapes we had been travelling through.
Inca Ice Maiden, Juanita.
Next, we were dropped off in the town square for the walking part of our tour. Our first stop was the Catholic University Museum, home to the Inca Ice Maiden, Juanita, the frozen remains of a young girl sacrificed to the Inca gods between 1450 and 1480. She was discovered on Mount Ampato and is now kept in a frozen state on display with other artefacts.
I’m not entirely sure how I feel about her ending up in a glass case. I’m not religious, but I still believe her remains deserve more than being preserved for tourists and scientists to examine. I doubt this is what the Inca people intended, and I’m fairly certain that if Juanita had a say, she would have preferred to live a full life and, when her time came, be given a normal burial.
Santa Catalina Monastery.
After leaving the museum, we walked to the Santa Catalina Monastery, a vast complex that feels more like a small walled village than a convent. Our guide explained that the second daughter in a family would come here for religious instruction, and, unlike in other convents I’ve visited, the girls were usually from wealthy families and could even bring their servants. That practice was eventually stopped, and we were shown the bakery, kitchen and washrooms where the girls had to cook, bake and clean for themselves. It’s a beautiful, tranquil place, and I can imagine many people choosing it as a retreat from the city's dust and noise.
Vicuña factory.
When the tour finished, we returned to the Casa Andina Classic. On the way, our guide Jorge offered to walk anyone interested to the vicuña factory for a tour and a bit of retail therapy. I joined him, and we wandered through pleasant cobbled streets where dogs barked at us from the flat roofs of Spanish‑style homes. Eventually, we reached the main dusty road through Arequipa, where traffic moved in its usual chaotic fashion. We were debating how best to cross when a policeman materialised from the traffic, acted like a school crossing guard, and shepherded us safely to the other side.
The vicuña museum and factory looked like large houses from the front, but around the side, we found a garden filled with llamas, alpacas and vicuñas. We were given a lesson on how to tell the animals apart and what each breed is used for. Inside the factory, we learned about the different types of wool and felt their softness. After watching women weaving blankets by hand, we were inevitably led through the shop before heading back to the hotel. The whole experience felt like a Disney ride: queue, educational pre‑show (the garden), the ride itself (the factory), and finally the souvenir shop. I bought a very expensive alpaca‑wool blanket for my mum, which should keep her warm through the English winter.
Evening.
Back at the hotel, I went up to the roof garden for a view of the city and the mountains and volcanoes surrounding Arequipa. After a short rest, my stomach reminded me that I hadn’t eaten since breakfast, so at around 17:30 I set out to find a restaurant called Zig Zag, recommended by our guide Rosario. A short walk later, I found it and enjoyed a wonderful trio of meats, lamb, pork and alpaca. Nothing goes to waste with alpaca: first, you take its wool for a jumper, then you eat what’s left.
After a great meal and a cool beer, I returned to the hotel for an early night and a good sleep.
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