A journey through volcanic landscapes, ancient terraces and high‑altitude passes, with alpacas, elusive condors, narrow canyon roads, and a cosy evening in Chivay, complete with football chat, cold mountain air and a teasing surprise at bedtime.
Today, we travelled from Arequipa through the Colca Canyon to Chivay. We passed through many small villages scattered across the rugged volcanic landscape, where farming remains the main source of livelihood for local families.
As we drove, we saw raised terraces from pre‑Inca settlements, still cultivated for potatoes, corn, tomatoes, onions and local vegetables. Looking at the steep, narrow terraces, I couldn’t help wondering how many people had been injured, or worse, while working on them. I certainly wouldn’t want to be out there without a safety rope to stop me tumbling over the edge.
Andes Mountains.
We stopped at a small shop and café for a break. After a cup of coca tea with mint, I browsed the sale racks of clothes and crafts and bought my first gift for myself on this trip. Because of the warfarin I take, my hands get very cold back in England, sometimes even indoors, so I treated myself to a pair of alpaca gloves with no fingertips. They’ll keep my hands warm while still allowing me to use my camera or, on particularly cold days, my computer.
As we climbed higher, we passed hundreds of roaming alpacas and countless small streams flowing down from the mountaintops and glaciers above. At just over 16,000 feet, we reached the highest point accessible without a climbing licence. A few years ago, the Peruvian government introduced new rules after too many people died attempting to climb mountains, volcanoes and glaciers without proper equipment or guidance. It wasn’t great for tourism, so now you need a licence, gear and a local guide.
Sadly, no one had informed me of this before I arrived, so my planned solo ascent, without a guide, equipment, oxygen or even a large llama, was thwarted before it began. I settled instead for posing at the altitude marker.
Colca Canyon.
We soon arrived at Colca Canyon, deeper than the Grand Canyon and home to the condor. These enormous birds, members of the vulture family, soar high above the canyon searching for carrion. We visited a couple of lookout points near the nesting area. Although I’d love to say I saw condors clearly, they were flying so high that even with my zoom lens, it was hard to be certain. I did see plenty of smaller, brightly coloured birds, several hawks or kestrels, and many distant specks that our guide confidently assured me were condors.
Driving through the canyon felt like travelling through a land untouched by time. Hundreds of llamas and alpacas grazed on the slopes, tended by shepherds whose way of life has barely changed for generations. The roads were narrow and dusty, and occasional landslides forced us onto hastily built dirt detours.
Chivay.
Our hotel for the night had a planetarium, and I bought a ticket for the evening show. After a lovely dinner, I headed to the bar, only to be told the planetarium had developed a fault and the show was cancelled. I took my refund and decided to reinvest it in the local community, specifically, the Casa Andina Hotel bar, where I joined an Englishman and a Welshman for a discussion of football. I warmed myself by the large open fire; at this altitude, the temperature drops quickly once the sun goes down.
After a few beers, I headed back to my room. On the way, I remembered Rosario, our guide, telling me to expect a pleasant surprise in my bed. Imagine my disappointment when I climbed in and found a hot water bottle. Rosario, you are a tease.
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