A day travelling through the Sacred Valley with police‑lined roads, luxury‑hotel pilots, bustling markets, a steep climb through Ollantaytambo’s terraces, a temperamental coach, and an unforgettable piano performance back at the hotel.
After a good breakfast buffet at our hotel in Cusco, we set off for a tour of the Sacred Valley of the Incas. As we drove through rural landscapes and several small shanty towns, we noticed a heavy police presence. Our guide explained that the president of Peru was visiting the area today, election season, and he needed the support of the people living in these communities.
Lunch in the Sacred Valley.
For lunch, we stopped at a restaurant on the grounds of an imposing hotel, complete with an equally impressive buffet. I noticed a few airline pilots leaving the complex and heading back to Cusco for their flights. They must be exceptionally good at their jobs to afford such a luxury. After lunch, we continued through the Sacred Valley, passing small villages and crossing a wide river lined with buildings perched rather precariously along the banks.
Ollantaytambo Market & Archaeological Site.
We eventually reached the town of Ollantaytambo and stopped to visit the local market, where we were shown the meat, fish and vegetables on display. After exploring the market, we walked through the town to the archaeological site, an impressive walled Inca complex rising steeply up the mountainside.
Looking up at the terraces, I wondered how anyone managed to reach the top. I soon found out, as we began our walking tour. For a civilisation of relatively small people, the Incas built remarkably steep steps. It was exhausting climbing them, and I blamed my shortness of breath entirely on the altitude, not on my fitness.
From the top, we had a spectacular view of the homes below. Across the valley, on another mountain, we could see ancient storehouses built directly into the rock face. I couldn’t imagine how workers climbed up and down carrying food, let alone how they hauled the stone needed to build the structures in the first place.
The Descent and the Drive Back.
At the top, there was an alternative route down, longer, less steep, but poorly maintained with long, unguarded drops. Unfortunately, the drop would have been on my blind side, and not being able to judge where the path ended, and the fall began, I decided to return the way I came. It was not a descent I enjoyed. My depth perception made it difficult, and on some steps, I lowered myself onto my backside, but I managed most of it on foot.
Our drive back to Cusco took longer than expected. The coach stuttered to a halt four times, as if it too were suffering from altitude sickness. We were all relieved when we finally reached the hotel. Today’s driver deserved special praise for keeping us safe under challenging conditions.
Evening Entertainment.
That evening, I had another sandwich and a beer in the hotel bar. A pianist was providing entertainment. If you’ve ever seen Les Dawson play the piano, you’ll know the style, except this performer wasn’t doing it for comedic effect. The guests' laughter was entirely unintentional.
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