I did a brief but tiring walk through the Tongass National Forest when the NCL Spirit cruise ship, which I was cruising around Hawaii and Alaska on, docked in Ketchikan, Alaska.
A Colossal Landscape.
The Tongass National Forest is not only the largest US National Forest but also one of the worldโs most extraordinary expanses. Encompassing approximately 16.7 million acres (26,100 square miles or about 68,000 kmยฒ), it stretches over an expanse larger than ten U.S. states. This immense public land covers a mosaic of ecosystemsโfrom islands of the Alexander Archipelago and glacial fjords to the soaring peaks of the Coast Mountains. The sheer size of the forest is a constant reminder of natureโs scale and resilience, providing a vast setting where wilderness can thrive relatively untouched by modern civilisation.
Verdant Plant Life.
At the heart of the Tongass is its unique and abundant plant life. Predominantly a temperate rainforest, this forest is home to ancient stands of old-growth trees. In fact, nearly 30% of the worldโs remaining old-growth forest exists within its bounds. Towering conifers such as Sitka spruce, western hemlock, and western red cedar dominate the canopy, while a rich understory of ferns, mosses, and lichens drapes the forest floor. Along its numerous inlets and riparian corridors, species of alder and riparian grasses maintain calm, vital waterways, conditions that bolster the regionโs famed salmon runs. These plant communities work in tandem with the forestโs waterways to create microenvironments that are both spectacular and ecologically critical.
Flourishing Animal Life.
The Tongass National Forest teems with life across all classes. One of its most celebrated legacies is its status as โAmericaโs Salmon Forest.โ Every one of North Americaโs five Pacific salmon species, chinook, coho, sockeye, pink, and chum, thrives there, their migratory journeys nourished by plentiful, cold, and clear streams that stretch for roughly 17,000 miles within the forest. These waterways not only support salmon but also serve as vital lifelines for trout and other fish, each species playing its unique role in the intricate tapestry of the ecosystem.
Predators and other wildlife equally find refuge in the Tongass. The forest supports dense populations of apex predators, such as brown bears and wolves. Nesting bald eagles, whose impressive wingspans (ranging from 6 to 7.5 feet) dominate the sky, maintain one of their highest nesting densities in the world. Ungulates like the Sitka black-tailed deer also roam these woods, adding to the regionโs rich biodiversity. Each animal, from the smallest fish to the largest carnivore, is part of a balanced cycle where salmon, for example, provide essential nutrients to both the terrestrial and aquatic environments through their life and death, a delicate balance that sustains the entire ecosystem.
Layers of History.
The human story in the Tongass National Forest is as intricate as its natural systems. Initially set aside as the Alexander Archipelago Forest Reserve in 1902 by President Theodore Roosevelt, the area was recognised early on for its unique value. In 1907, Roosevelt made a further proclamation establishing the Tongass National Forest. Just a year later, in 1908, the reserve and the newly proclaimed Tongass were combined, thereby consolidating most of Southeast Alaskaโs wild lands under one management.
Subsequent proclamations in 1909 and 1925, under different administrations, further expanded this domain. These early federal actions not only recognised the ecological importance of the area but also set the stage for decades of conservation management. Yet, the history of the Tongass is interwoven with issues of indigenous rights. The Tlingit and Haida peoples have long maintained deep cultural and historical ties to these lands. Legal decisions, notably in the Tlingit and Haida Indians of Alaska vsย the United States case, affirmed that Alaskan natives held established aboriginal title based on millennia of exclusive use and occupancy. This recognition of native rights followed the contestation of the implications of designating the vast forest as federal land. This decision had significant cultural and economic implications for the indigenous groups.
Beyond its conservation and human history, the forest has also witnessed dramatic events. For example, in 1971, Alaska Airlines Flight 1866 tragically crashed within its bounds, marking a grim chapter in its modern history. Such events contribute to the narrative complexity of the Tongass, reminding us that landscapes of such vast natural beauty have also witnessed the impacts of modern-day human travel and tragedy.
Looking Forward.
The Tongass National Forest stands as a living laboratory of intertwined natural and human histories. It is a realm where ancient trees and cascading streams support vibrant animal populations, where the narratives of indigenous peoples and federal conservation policies intersect. For scientists, conservationists, and history enthusiasts alike, the Tongass provides endless opportunities for study, reflection, and wonder. As issues like climate change and habitat loss present new challenges, the lessons embedded in the Tongassโs diverse ecosystems and storied past become ever more valuable.
Beyond its vastness in acreage and natural splendour, the forest continues to inspire debates about sustainable resource management and indigenous rights, a topic that resonates even today. Whether youโre drawn by its lush canopies, its roaring rivers filled with life, or its remarkable legacy of conservation and resilience, the Tongass National Forest remains a dynamic symbol of the intricate balance between nature and culture.
There is always more to learn about such a multifaceted landscape, from the ongoing conservation efforts that ensure its preservation, to the cultural narratives still being written by those who call it home.
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