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4 April 2025
Alan Morris at the Abhaneri Stepwalls.
Alan Morris at the Abhaneri Stepwalls.

Today, I left Ranthambore and travelled to Agra. On the way, I visited the Abhaneri Stepwalls, aka Chand Baori, which is located in the village of Abhaneri in Rajasthan.

Chand Baori or Abhaneri Stepwalls.

The Chand Baori is one of the oldest and most impressive stepwells in India. It was built by King Chanda sometime in the 9th century. 

Chand Baori has 3,500 narrow steps arranged in perfect symmetry, which descend 20m to the bottom of the well. Centuries ago, the stepwells were built in the arid zones of Rajasthan to provide water all year through. Today, it is not used as a well anymore, but its exquisite geometry attracts both local and international visitors. About 64 feet deep, it is India's largest and deepest stepwell, with 13 floors.

We arrived at the Abhaneri Stepwells and parked on a dusty road outside it. We got down from the coach and walked across the road to the entrance. Our guide, Digamber, got us all a ticket to go in to look around the Stepwell and gave us some information about it. I was looking around and taking photos when an Indian security guard approached me and started to say something to me in Hindu. I didn't understand what he was saying, but Digamber told me that because I had used my DJI 3 video camera to take photos, I would be charged as they didn't allow video cameras. I had only been taking photos but decided that, as they were going to charge me, I might as well shoot some videos. The crazy thing was that I could have used my mobile phone to shoot video, and there would have been no charge. Digamber spoke to the man and said he would pay the charge and get the money from me later. Luckily for me, the charge was only ₹25, around 25 cents in Europe or 25 pence in the UK.

The Stepwells were terrific to see, but we were not allowed to climb into the well itself. I was pretty grateful for this because it was quite steep and had no handrails, and I know that if we had been allowed to climb down the Stepwell, I would have at least attempted to climb a short way down it.

We didn't stop long, and as we left and recrossed the road outside, a very loud truck with speakers booming out music was blocking the road. We were told that it was a wedding procession, and we watched as some of the wedding guests followed the truck through the dust and along the dirt road to the wedding. When the procession had passed, we got back on the coach and set off for our next stop, where we would have lunch.

Umaid Lake Palace.

The Umaid Lake Palace is a luxurious heritage resort located near Jaipur, in the Dausa district of Rajasthan. The Palace is set amidst 20 acres of lush greenery, offering a serene and picturesque environment. We stopped here for lunch after we visited the Chand Baori. The food here was quite good, and I could see it being used to host wedding parties around the large outdoor swimming pool in the courtyard.

 Grand Mercure Agra.

The hotel for my stay in Agra was the Grand Mercure Agra. I was very disappointed with my room here. When I booked this trip, I was told that I would have an unhindered view of the Taj Mahal from the bedroom window and that I would be looking out across a park and see the Taj Mahal with nothing else in the way.

When we arrived, I was given the key to my room and shown it by a beautiful young lady. Unfortunately, when I got to the room, it looked out over the staff car park, and all I could see were bins and motorbikes. I went to reception and complained to the manager. He told me that JustYou had not booked any rooms with views but did change my room. I was shown my next room, and although on a higher floor, the views were no better. This time, I overlooked a railway building and the side of a nightclub. I left my room and went up to the bar and pool area on the roof. The Taj Mahal could be seen from there, but it was some way off across the Agra skyline, and I realised that the room JustYou had promised me must be in another hotel.

Many of the people on the coach tour with me gathered on the roof around the bar for a drink, but I found it too cold for me to sit outside and went back to my bedroom to get some sleep for tomorrow's early morning visit to the Taj Mahal. I didn't get to sleep as quickly as I had hoped, as the noise of vehicle drivers tooting horns and the music from the nightclub next door kept me awake for longer than I had hoped.

Address: Fatehabad Road, 282001, Agra.

Photos from today's journey.