A morning exploring the Nao Victoria in Cartagena revealed just how astonishing the world’s first circumnavigation really was, a tiny ship, a brutal voyage, and a story that still amazes five centuries later.
The Nao Victoria holds a special place in maritime history, the first ship to successfully sail around the world. So when my friend Adrian Maplebeck spotted that a full‑size replica was moored in Cartagena harbour, we decided to go and take a look. Adrian drove us down, and we spent a fascinating morning exploring a vessel that once changed the course of global exploration.
The Original Nao Victoria.
The original Victoria was part of a Spanish expedition led by the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan, who was killed in the Philippines before completing the voyage. After his death, Juan Sebastián Elcano took command and ultimately brought the ship home.
The expedition began in 1519 with five ships. the Trinidad, San Antonio, Concepción, Santiago, and Victoria. all built in Gipuzkoa, where Basque shipbuilders were renowned for their craftsmanship. Only the Victoria survived the journey.
The ship itself was modest by modern standards: 85 tonnes, a crew of 42, and sails that would later be described as “torn to shreds” by the time she limped back into Spain. The circumnavigation covered around 68,000 kilometres, with more than half of that distance through waters completely unknown to Europeans at the time.
By December 1521, the Victoria was sailing alone. The other ships had been lost, captured, or forced to abandon the voyage due to lack of supplies. Barely afloat, leaking constantly, and held together by sheer determination, the Victoria returned to Spain in September 1522. carrying a precious cargo of spices that made the entire ordeal worthwhile for the crown.
A Voyage of Mutiny, Hardship, and Survival.
The expedition began with 265 men. Only 18 returned.
The journey was plagued by mutiny, starvation, disease, and conflict. Captains were executed, marooned, or killed in ambushes. Leadership changed hands repeatedly — from Magellan to Barbosa, then Serrão, then Carvalho, and finally Elcano, who completed the voyage.
Among the survivors, Antonio Pigafetta was the most important. His journals provided the detailed account that historians still rely on today.
The Victoria herself continued sailing for decades after the expedition, eventually disappearing at sea around 1570.
The Replica Nao Victoria.
The replica moored in Cartagena was built in 1991 after extensive research by designer Ignacio Fernández Vial, who used 16th‑century documents, nautical treatises, and period iconography to recreate the ship as accurately as possible.
To commemorate the first circumnavigation, the replica embarked on its own round‑the‑world voyage between 2004 and 2006, covering nearly 27,000 miles and visiting 17 countries.
Walking aboard the replica, it’s astonishing to imagine anyone crossing an ocean in something so small. I’ve seen bigger climbing frames in McDonald’s play areas. Even in the calm waters of Cartagena harbour, the ship rocked noticeably. Out at sea., especially in storms, it must have been horrendous.
The cramped spaces, low ceilings, and narrow walkways make it clear that the crew must have been far smaller in stature than most people today. Anyone of average modern build would struggle to move around comfortably.
Summary.
I thoroughly enjoyed visiting the Nao Victoria. It’s incredible to think that this tiny ship, or rather, its original counterpart, once circled the globe. The replica brings history to life in a way that books simply can’t.
But for my next adventure on the high seas, I’ll stick to a modern cruise ship with a comfortable bed, an ensuite bathroom, a five‑star restaurant, and a full entertainment programme. The brave souls who sailed the Victoria can keep their leaking hull, cramped bunks, and 16th‑century diet.
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